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When curating a list of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect familiar high-end names. However, situated near the top among these gastronomic giants is a modest salonu found in a far-flung area of north London.

An Unexpected Accolade

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. This recognition has left the owners completely shocked.

“I am utterly shocked,” remarks a family member, alluding to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest shop achieving such a lofty spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s focused on the fare, and this eatery certainly delivers. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. When the savoury mixture bubbles up, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is usually consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for less than £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at elite establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum would be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.